Joey and I have been here for about a week and we have done a lot of things within that time. We have found a place to live, a long-stay guesthouse inside the moat of Chiang Mai. I have a full-time job teaching English; Joey has a part-time job. We bought bikes for transportation. We opted for the pedal type even though motor bikes are very poplar here. Part of the reason why we have pedal bikes is because of my brief, yet memorable, experience with a motor bike this week. The explanation for this is further down.
The Guest HouseThe apartment/guesthouse search took about a week. That was plenty long for me; however, Joey would have kept at it for a while longer I think. Part of the reason why I wanted to go ahead and get a place is because we will only be here 2.5 months and I wanted to get our living place settled quickly. I will have plenty of apartment searching adventures when I get back to the States.
When searching for a place, we had a few requirements. Some of those requirements were odd by Thai standards. The first requirement was a clean, safe area and room. The second thing was a fan; we hear it gets pretty hot here in March and April. The third thing was a kitchen, or at least a fridge with the possibility of adding a hot plate. This last necessity is unusual here. Very few apartment rooms, which foreigners can rent, have kitchens. If they do have kitchens, they are double, if not triple, the price of a non-kitchen containing unit. The reason for the no kitchen units is because the Thai food on the street is very cheap. I like Thai food, but I didn’t want it every day two or three times a day. That would be overkill.
We looked at both apartments and houses. There are several ways to look for a place to live – real estate agents (not too helpful based on feedback from locals), ads (a good method, but often you are too late), word of mouth (difficult if you don’t know too many people), and driving around the neighborhood that you want to live in and looking for signs that say “For Sale/Rent.” We tried all four options, but none found us the right place. We walked/drove in a tuk tuk around the areas we wanted to live in and found nothing quite right. The best place for us we discovered a day after arrival; it was actually a few meters from our initial room. That made the move nice.
Our final decision is a place called J’s Guesthouse. So far, it has been a great place to live. We have a good size room with a fridge and free internet. We pay for the room and electricity, but have no garbage or water fees. The electric fees are more than other places and I suspect this recoups the owner for no water fees. Downstairs has a decently stocked kitchen with a gas oven and stove. We have cooked the past few nights and most things seem to work. The internet is good, although I have to update and scan my computer an excessive amount because of how long I have been offline.
The Job
My job is nothing special, but it helps pay the bills. I work at a language school right outside the city. It is about a 20 minute bike ride away; so it isn’t bad. It is good exercise and the weather is nice. I can’t complain, expect perhaps for all the crazy Asian drivers on the road. And even that I am getting use to.
The (Motor) Bike
Originally Joey and I were going to rent motorbikes for our time here. We spent a day or so looking around the city and pricing our options. We found a place to rent them for about $800/month, which was a good deal. We paid for a month’s rental and a safety deposit, and were off to try out our bikes. As soon as I got on, I had a queasy, unnerving feeling. I knew I definitely needed to practice. I tried going up and down the straight street; that worked pretty well. The road wasn’t too busy, so I was ok. The problem occurred when I tried to turn. I managed to scrape the whole side of a car. I guess I didn’t feel comfortable turning the bike sharply yet. I didn’t even notice the scratch; I was too worried about the bike and surviving. Joey told me about the scratches later. I headed back to the place of rental to pick up Joey and leave my accident.
With Joey on his bike and also feeling a bit unnerved, we headed out on a trail run. We wanted a place without people and cars, but that is impossible here. So we tried a straight away with relatively few people and cars. We knew then and there that we wanted to get off of those bikes and get our money back. Or at least I knew that. I did not want to spend anymore time on that bike than necessary. So we took the shortest route possible to the place of rental. We were almost there. I was SO close. I just needed to made one right (the rights here are like a left in the US – they drive on the other side of the street here) turn to get back to the place.
But I couldn’t make that turn sharp enough. Instead of making it on to the correct side of the road, I went a little too far and managed to run into a line of parked motorbikes. I hit one and then four others went down like dominos. The bikes’ owners came running over, talking, examining the damage, etc. I was just trying to stop the bike from doing anymore damage. Eventually I turned it off. I was stunned by the experience. Joey and the bike rental shop owner came over and helped appease the worried owners. I just wanted to leave the scene of the accident and sit down.
The bike shop owner was very nice about helping assuage the concerns of owners’ with now-damaged bikes. He said he would fix them all in his shop. Joey took me to the bike rental place and found a place for me to sit down. I was shaking and hardly able to talk. I was scared out of my mind. It was hard for me to imagine all the damage I did, and I only had the motorbike for about 20 minutes. Luckily, I wasn’t incredibly hurt. The biggest things were large, deep bruises up and down my legs. So, I got off rather cheaply considering the accident.
The bikes didn’t get off so cheaply. Three bikes had knocked off mirrors, another bike had a dented exhaust pipe and my bike was all messed up. However, with about $125 all those problems could be fixed. I gladly paid the money and got out of there. The bike rental owner was kind enough to give us back all our money, except for the repair costs. Now, I try to avoid that street and in particular that area of the street. I guess I am a little embarrassed. J
I told me dad about my inability to turn the motorbike. He said, “Amanda, why couldn’t you turn it?” I told him I didn’t know, but I felt like I was going to fall over all the time. I guess a father should teach his daughter how to ride a motorbike, even if it isn’t the most practical or safe thing to do in the States.
In Thailand, the motorbike is the choice mode of transportation. I think they start driving them at the age of 5. By the age of 20 they can switch motorbike gears with their feet, talk on the phone, and hold a drink all at the same time while driving.
The (Pedal) Bike - My Bike
Needless to say, after that experience there was no way I was going to drive a motorbike here. It was decided – a pedal bike would be just fine. So, we priced those out the following day. I couldn’t do it that afternoon due to my recently acquired bruises. I found someone who could get them for us. They are cheap, as Joey will tell you, somewhat flimsy, also Joey will tell you this, and brightly colored. For me, they are perfect.
Mine is a fire engine red with a basket and seat on the back for a kid. I have a red lock and couldn’t be happier. We paid about $60 for each bike, but we were swindled. They should have been about $5 cheaper/bike. People will take advantage of you everywhere. At least here, they do it with a smile and it only costs about $10. In Almaty, they do it with a frown and it costs about $100.
Other ActivitiesBesides those big ticket things, Joey and I have continued to explore the city and surrounding areas. We explored the daily markets a bit more and browsed our favorite Sunday night market again. We haven’t visited many of the temples again, but I am sure we will do that later when we have more time or visitors.
I am also hoping to get into jogging again here. The climate is more suitable here than in Almaty, although Chiang Mai has its fair share of poor air quality. We are going to attempt jogging here tomorrow morning.
Another thing I hope Joey and I can do before long is explore the waterfall that we found on our last day with the rented car. We weren’t able to thoroughly investigate the area and nature trails, so I would like to do that soon. I would also like to visit the other waterfall in the area that we didn’t get a chance to see.
There are tons of other things that I hope we are able to do, but the list above will suffice for now. CM is a nice city with tons of stuff to do.
We have made a few ex-pat friends through the ex-pat meetings here. They are VERY friendly and VERY helpful. They are always willing to help out if needed, which is a wonderful thing to have.
VisitorsThailand is a popular place to visit. I think we have four people coming to visit us during our short stay. Gail, Joey’s aunt, starts off the visitors. She arrives on Feb. 25 and will accompany us on our trip to Cambodia for a week. She will then come back in Chiang Mai with Joey and me for a week or so. Next is my sister, Liz. She arrives at the end of March and accompanies us on our trip to Laos for a week. She then spends time in Chiang Mai and I will go down to Bangkok with her to make sure she sees the big sights there. Almost immediately after Liz we have two friends from Kazakhstan coming to visit us – David and Nagiza. For only having 2.5 months here, we will have a lot of guests I think. And I welcome them all! Thailand, Chiang Mai in particular, is a wonderful vacation spot.
Departure dateMy departure date from Thailand is April 17. I arrive on the 18th in Wilmington, NC - home, sweet home. I leave right after the much anticipated Thai New Year, where all the locals throw water balloons at the tourists. It sounds like a wonderful time with lots of parties and outside activities. J It should be a good way to end our stay here.
That is it for now. Hope all is well with everyone. Send me an email when you get a chance.